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Thu 9/7/06
This is the bulb socket part of the light. After sandblasting it to clean off the corrosion and rust, I soldered a wire to the body of it and painted it white to protect it from rust and ensure that it reflects as much light as possible. After painting it, I used a file to scrape away the paint in the grooves where the nubs on the bulb get their ground. (You can use dielectric grease here to prevent corrosion and rust in that location.) The orange wire was scavenged from a different light housing. I had to use a belt sander to grind down the circumferance of the black piece at the end so that it would fit into the CJ2A socket. That is the stock CJ2A spring on the orange wire. Of course, the orange wire is the positive lead.
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001 - 57 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
Both wires were rounted down through the bolt.
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002 - 67 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
The socket is placed inside of the bullet housing, then the base was installed and the retaining nut was screwed on. Pictured at left is a fairly decent way to tighten up that nut - a pair of needle nose pliers inserted into the holes and twisted acts sort've like a spanner wrench. I elected not to replace the rivet which connects the socket to the housing, as I figure the bolt will accomplish this purpose.
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003 - 80 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
The glass lenses are inserted into the rubber frames.
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004 - 67 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
Then the lenses and frames are inserted into the housing cover.
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005 - 67 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
Just a pic showing the painted type 89 bulb in place, just before the housing cover goes on.
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006 - 73 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
The finished product.
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007 - 75 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
Light off...
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008 - 95 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
Light on!
The camera doesn't really pick up the color very well, but the light is a nice "turn signal quality" orange.
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009 - 84 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
Light off...
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010 - 103 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
Light on!
Once again, the color is off in the photo. The brightness is very good; it should be more than sufficient. If you look into the housing when the light is on, you will get that little burned-in artifact floating around in front of your eyes for a little bit.
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011 - 71 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
The light is inserted into the hole in the bracket behind the grill. A star washer then bolt goes over the wires and onto the bolt to hold it in place. (There is supposed to be a little pin on the bottom of the housing that goes into a corresponding hole in the bracket, but sometimes it is broken off. If it is, you just need to be more careful about aiming the light to the front while tightening the bolt to prevent the whole assembly from turning.)
Note: It is easier to install these lights when the grill is out of the vehicle (especially the driver's side), but I found that I could create enough clearance by unbolting the fender and prying it slightly out of the way.
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012 - 99 KB |
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Thu 9/7/06
The running light is back where it belongs, and nobody knows that it is actually a turn signal except you! The only giveaway is that if you look very, very close at the frosted glass lenses, you might be able to tell that there is an amber bulb installed back there instead of a clear one.
Even if you are looking to keep your running lights as running lights, the floating ground information might be helpful to you. The ground wire can now be run to a convenient good ground. If you are one of those concours restoration type folks, if you enclose the wires in some of that stock type fabric loom, it would be really easy to hide the ground wire; nobody would ever know the difference, except for you, as you enjoy lights that come on when you want 'em, without having to bother with scraping away paint, making sure there is a good metal to metal connection between the grill and fenders/frame, etc.
That's all for now... Stay tuned for the actual details as far as how to wire them up to use them as turn signals.
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013 - 92 KB |
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